I recline on a sun lounger, a book propped up on my middle as I open my eyes to gaze at the shimmering sea. Is it aqua or jade? Cerulean or teal? Cornflower or shamrock? Turquoise or emerald? I can’t made up my mind about the exact hues of the waters kissing the coastline, but I’m sure I haven’t seen such crystal-clear ocean in a long, long time.
I'm in Lakshadweep, India’s tiniest union territory, which is spread over barely 32 square kilometres off the coast of Kochi, Kerala's capital. These small islands are big on beauty, with lush green coconut palms, sun-kissed beaches and magnificent lagoons, all fringed by the gorgeous blue sea.
The name of the archipelago translates to “hundred thousand islands” from Malayalam, the local language, and Sanskrit. There are actually only 36 isles, of which barely 10 are inhabited, including Agatti, Bangaram, Kadmath, Kavaratti (the capital), Kalpeni and Minicoy.
A surge in tourism
The archipelago is spread out over 400,000 square kilometres of waters that are rich in marine life. But, despite its natural beauty and proximity to mainland India, Lakshadweep has largely remained off bucket lists, on account of poor connectivity and cumbersome entry procedures.
The islands are also losing their coral reefs and facing the impact of climate change on “multiple levels”, according to a UN Development Programme report, which has led environmental experts to warn against mass tourism.
However, after Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi posted images on social media of himself on the islands earlier this month, there has been a flurry of interest.
“I am still in awe of the stunning beauty of its islands and the incredible warmth of its people,” Modi wrote. “For those who wish to embrace the adventurer in them, Lakshadweep has to be on your list.”
This prompted some social media users to suggest it was a more attractive destination than the Maldives, an island nation whose economy hinges on tourism and is visited by many Indians. This led to a diplomatic row, with three Maldivian ministers making “derogatory” remarks about Modi. Indian celebrities, politicians and businesses have since come out in support of promoting local beach destinations.
The Maldives’s loss may be Lakshadweep’s gain. Raj Rishi Singh, chief marketing and business officer of online travel company MakeMyTrip, said the islands have seen a “remarkable” 3,400 per cent increase in on-platform searches since Modi's visit.
Travel firm Ixigo also posted on X, formerly known as Twitter, that there had been a 2,900 per cent spike in searches.
What is there to do in Lakshadweep?
The islands can only be reached via Kochi, the financial capital of Kerala, by ships and flights. Entry permits are mandatory for all travellers and can be obtained through the government’s ePermit portal.
Advance bookings are needed as only a certain number of tourists are allowed on the islands at any given time.
While the logistics take more effort than for other destinations, the bureaucracy will be forgotten once you’re on the islands, touching down at Agatti airport or pulling up on a cruise ship at Kavaratti, Kalpeni and Minicoy.
HR consultant Deepika Singh, who lives in Mumbai, says of her recent visit to Lakshadweep: “There’s so much to do and so little time.”
Agatti, the only island with an airport, is spread across 3.3 square kilometres and is home to a beautiful lagoon. The island has a languorous pace and there are options galore for exploring the aquatic diversity, which includes rainbow-coloured fish, corals and turtles. Visitors can try sailing, fishing, water skiing or kayaking.
Not too far from Agatti is Andrott, the largest island of the archipelago and the closest to the Indian mainland. Explore the lighthouse, and don’t miss the Buddhist ruins and the tomb of Saint Ubaidullah.
Crescent-shaped Minicoy, the second largest island, is closest to Nine Degree Channel, the busiest shipping port in the Arabian Sea. The silver-sand beaches and clear waters make this the best place to scuba dive and explore coral reefs.
Kavaratti, the most developed island, offers pristine white beaches and sleepy lagoons. As many as 52 mosques are spread out over the land, an area of barely four square kilometres. Ujra mosque is renowned, as the water from a nearby well is said to have curative powers.
“The Dolphin Dive Centre is perfect for when you want a day out with dolphins, while the Kavaratti Aquarium, with its fascinating collection of corals and tropical fish specimens, is ideal for keeping kids engaged,” says Singh.
The beaches of Bangaram, a tiny teardrop-shaped island, offer soft white sands. At night, phosphorescent plankton often wash ashore, giving the beach an enchanting, bluish glow.
Almost all inhabited islands offer water sports, but the eight-kilometre-long Kadmat Island is the place to go for windsurfing, snorkelling and water skiing, thanks to the Water Sports Institute. The scuba diving centre draws in plenty of travellers, with kayaks, sailing boats, pedal boats, skiing boats and glass-bottomed boats also available to hire.
A local lets me in on a sight no one should miss: The Pitti Bird Sanctuary, located on an uninhabited coral islet and a nesting place for pelagic birds, such as the sooty tern, greater-crested tern and the brown noddy. A day trip – via ferry, speedboat or catamaran – can be taken from Agatti.
From Arabia to the Malabar Coast
During my visit, I learn that islanders mainly rely on the area's agricultural mainstay – coconut palms – to earn a livelihood. Many also cultivate bananas, vegetables, edible root crops and millet. Fishing augments the region’s economy, with many fishermen continuing ancient customs of skilled navigation and sailing in the distinctive odam, a traditional sewn boat.
While more than 95 per cent of Lakshadweep is populated by Muslims, islanders share strong cultural, ethnic, linguistic and cultural links with Malayalis, Kannadigas, Tamils and Arabs.
In Sources Towards a History of the Laccadive Islands, scholar Andrew DW Forbes writes that the first settlers on Lakshadweep were “Malabari sailors, quite possibly castaways”. He believes islanders converted to Islam over an extended period of time as the islands were on the trade route between Arabia and the Malabar Coast.
Today, people in this tropical paradise, which has a population of more than 65,000, are warm and friendly. A walk around the village often results in impromptu chats with locals, who make recommendations on what you should see and what you shouldn’t miss.
'Imperative' to travel responsibly
While the locals warmly welcome tourists, experts worry the islands may not be able to handle the anthropogenic pressures of mass tourism.
Despite this, the recent Maldives-Lakshadweep controversy has led to a spike in investment in the islands. New infrastructure development projects, including an airport upgrade, new resorts and improved utility services, have been announced. Tata Group's Indian Hotels Company plans to launch two Taj-branded resorts in the next two years.
Local administration is also actively promoting cruise tourism. Waterways Leisure Tourism, which operates Cordelia Cruises to Lakshadweep, has reported a 2,500 per cent surge in booking enquiries in the last few days alone.
“It is imperative to monitor reef health, ensure effective fishery management and follow responsible tourism practices,” says marine biologist Prachi Hatkar, who advises people to dive responsibly, avoid physical contact with reef organisms and not anchor boats on the reef.
The UNDP report, The Great Coral Grief of Lakshadweep Islands, says reefs are slowly bleaching.
“This makes it vital that the government and people both ensure responsible tourism practices and continuously monitor the fragile ecosystem of this gorgeous archipelago,” says Hatkar.
As I step into the waves of a serene beach after a delicious seafood meal, I contemplate Lakshadweep's many charms. I'm overjoyed to be here, but I realise not all island escapes are the same – and we must preserve this one no matter what.
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
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GIANT REVIEW
Starring: Amir El-Masry, Pierce Brosnan
Director: Athale
Rating: 4/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
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Other ways to buy used products in the UAE
UAE insurance firm Al Wathba National Insurance Company (AWNIC) last year launched an e-commerce website with a facility enabling users to buy car wrecks.
Bidders and potential buyers register on the online salvage car auction portal to view vehicles, review condition reports, or arrange physical surveys, and then start bidding for motors they plan to restore or harvest for parts.
Physical salvage car auctions are a common method for insurers around the world to move on heavily damaged vehicles, but AWNIC is one of the few UAE insurers to offer such services online.
For cars and less sizeable items such as bicycles and furniture, Dubizzle is arguably the best-known marketplace for pre-loved.
Founded in 2005, in recent years it has been joined by a plethora of Facebook community pages for shifting used goods, including Abu Dhabi Marketplace, Flea Market UAE and Arabian Ranches Souq Market while sites such as The Luxury Closet and Riot deal largely in second-hand fashion.
At the high-end of the pre-used spectrum, resellers such as Timepiece360.ae, WatchBox Middle East and Watches Market Dubai deal in authenticated second-hand luxury timepieces from brands such as Rolex, Hublot and Tag Heuer, with a warranty.
Poland Statement
All people fleeing from Ukraine before the armed conflict are allowed to enter Poland. Our country shelters every person whose life is in danger - regardless of their nationality.
The dominant group of refugees in Poland are citizens of Ukraine, but among the people checked by the Border Guard are also citizens of the USA, Nigeria, India, Georgia and other countries.
All persons admitted to Poland are verified by the Border Guard. In relation to those who are in doubt, e.g. do not have documents, Border Guard officers apply appropriate checking procedures.
No person who has received refuge in Poland will be sent back to a country torn by war.
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
RESULTS
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In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
- Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000
- Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000
- Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000
- Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000
- HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000
- Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000
- Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000
- Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000
- Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000
- Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000
- Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000
- Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
- Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
- Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
The specs
Engine: 6.2-litre supercharged V8
Power: 712hp at 6,100rpm
Torque: 881Nm at 4,800rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 19.6 l/100km
Price: Dh380,000
On sale: now
Related
If you go
- The nearest international airport to the start of the Chuysky Trakt is in Novosibirsk. Emirates (www.emirates.com) offer codeshare flights with S7 Airlines (www.s7.ru) via Moscow for US$5,300 (Dh19,467) return including taxes. Cheaper flights are available on Flydubai and Air Astana or Aeroflot combination, flying via Astana in Kazakhstan or Moscow. Economy class tickets are available for US$650 (Dh2,400).
- The Double Tree by Hilton in Novosibirsk ( 7 383 2230100,) has double rooms from US$60 (Dh220). You can rent cabins at camp grounds or rooms in guesthouses in the towns for around US$25 (Dh90).
- The transport Minibuses run along the Chuysky Trakt but if you want to stop for sightseeing, hire a taxi from Gorno-Altaisk for about US$100 (Dh360) a day. Take a Russian phrasebook or download a translation app. Tour companies such as Altair-Tour ( 7 383 2125115 ) offer hiking and adventure packages.
Profile of Tamatem
Date started: March 2013
Founder: Hussam Hammo
Based: Amman, Jordan
Employees: 55
Funding: $6m
Funders: Wamda Capital, Modern Electronics (part of Al Falaisah Group) and North Base Media
White hydrogen: Naturally occurring hydrogen
Chromite: Hard, metallic mineral containing iron oxide and chromium oxide
Ultramafic rocks: Dark-coloured rocks rich in magnesium or iron with very low silica content
Ophiolite: A section of the earth’s crust, which is oceanic in nature that has since been uplifted and exposed on land
Olivine: A commonly occurring magnesium iron silicate mineral that derives its name for its olive-green yellow-green colour
The President's Cake
Director: Hasan Hadi
Starring: Baneen Ahmad Nayyef, Waheed Thabet Khreibat, Sajad Mohamad Qasem
Rating: 4/5
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%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Various%20%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Rosario%20Dawson%2C%20Natasha%20Liu%20Bordizzo%2C%20Lars%20Mikkelsen%20%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%0D%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
Engine: 2.4-litre 4-cylinder
Transmission: CVT auto
Power: 181bhp
Torque: 244Nm
Price: Dh122,900
If you go
The flights
Etihad flies direct from Abu Dhabi to San Francisco from Dh5,760 return including taxes.
The car
Etihad Guest members get a 10 per cent worldwide discount when booking with Hertz, as well as earning miles on their rentals. A week's car hire costs from Dh1,500 including taxes.
The hotels
Along the route, Motel 6 (www.motel6.com) offers good value and comfort, with rooms from $55 (Dh202) per night including taxes. In Portland, the Jupiter Hotel (https://jupiterhotel.com/) has rooms from $165 (Dh606) per night including taxes. The Society Hotel https://thesocietyhotel.com/ has rooms from $130 (Dh478) per night including taxes.
More info
To keep up with constant developments in Portland, visit www.travelportland.com. Good guidebooks include the Lonely Planet guides to Northern California and Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest.
